Monthly Archives: March 2010

Mistral

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March 27th, 2012
Almost 2 years later exactly I returned to Mistral for my second Restaurant Week experience. I thought it was only necessary to share with you the amazing dishes I tried this time around…

Beef Sirloin Carpaccio, Black Truffle Aïoli, Parmesan & Toasted Brioche
Two years ago my friend Jess ordered this as her first course and I haven’t heard the end of it since; the best she’s ever had! How could I not order it this time around? The beef was cut paper thin and paired well with the creamy texture of the black truffle aïoli.

Braised Pork “Osso Bucco” with Garnet Yam Polenta, Roasted Maitake Mushrooms & Marsala
The sides once again decided my entree for me. It was between the ‘Roasted All Natural Statler Chicken Breast with Green Asparagus & White Mushroom Risotto, Fine Herbes’ (aka RISOTTO) and the Osso Bucco with POLENTA. I ended up choosing the latter b/c I can’t justifiy ordering chicken at a restaurant of this caliber. The pork was so tender I didn’t even need a knife to cut it. I don’t care for mushrooms but the polenta was of course delicious, I just wish there was more of it!

Classic Profiteroles with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream, Dark Chocolate Sauce and Pistachio Croquant
Two profiteroles were stuffed with vanilla ice cream and topped with slightly hardened chocolate sauce and pistachios. For me, vanilla ice cream is a bore but I did enjoy this dessert. I liked the sweet/salty combination, but it was one notch too salty for my palette.

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March 26th, 2010
Stop #3 for restaurant week: Sorellina’s sister establishment Mistral, located between Boston’s Back Bay & South End at 223 Columbus Avenue. It wasn’t hard to tell that the two restaurants have the same owner/chef Jamie Mammano (and possibly the same stylist), as the overall feel & décor upon entering is comfortable, sophisticated, & cohesive. You may think the whimsical wrought iron chandeliers, the French pottery, and the stone that covered the floor, walls & bar countertop would give off a cold vibe, but I felt the complete opposite, as if I was dining in my own chic living room. Before the sun set the room was filled with warmth & light thanks to the floor-to-ceiling windows & their soft yellow curtains. The small lounge upon entering held cushioned patio-like lounge chairs, a couch with a plethora of pillows, and short tables that reminded me of wooden spools. The 40 person bar is separated from the dining area by 3 large illuminated rustic photographs, which are each sandwiched between 8ft tall narrow trees. My friend & I were led to our table and I immediately grabbed the booth seat, which was not unlike that of Sorellina: long banquette seating. I was connected to the other diners and had my very own pillow to make the evening even more relaxed. 

Bread: The small round loaf came pre-cut into about 6 pieces, along with a plate of butter and a chickpea hummus mix. Warm, full, and crunchy, this sourdough bread was a nice surprise and tasted great with both condiments (so great that my friend took ½ the loaf to go with her leftovers).  

Menu: This restaurant week menu had 3 options each for the Appetizer, Entrée, and Dessert. The regular day-to-day online menu differs from the one that I saw this evening, which makes me believe that the meals change daily so as to use the freshest ingredients possible. From the 3 options I had for restaurant week I choose to start with the Caesar Salad, continue with the grilled 12oz Sirloin (complete with “Potato Lyonnaise”, port wine reduction & gorgonzola butter), and finish with the Belgium Chocolate Mousse with Vanilla Sabayon Brulee.  

Presentation: The generous portion of Caesar salad was done just right with shaved parmesan cheese, crunchy croutons, and a light dressing. This dish can often be too creamy, but Mistral’s Caesar dressing was barely there & exceptionally flavorful. The Sirloin was served over the potatoes cubes & a few greens. I guess the gorgonzola was melted on top of the meat, because I saw a hint of butter but could barely taste it. The potatoes were soft & paired well with my medium rare steak. I don’t know the last time I ate an entire 12oz Sirloin, and didn’t anticipate finishing my enormous meal, but it was cooked so well that I couldn’t help myself. The chocolate mousse was served in a martini glass with a top layer of vanilla brulee. Light, rich & fluffy, I was shocked that I didn’t lick the glass clean (although I’m glad I didn’t after finishing off 12oz of meat).  

Bathroom: This was the highlight of my evening! Complete with 4 stalls each with a shutter door that swings in & out, I wouldn’t mind having this style of bathroom in my own home. The stone theme rang throughout, from the floor to the countertops. The bottom ½ of the walls were decorated with tiles, the top ½ painted a warm tan that gave it a rustic & homey feel. Soft napkins with a “Mistral” print were piled in between the 2 sinks, and disposed in the 3 large wooden baskets beneath.  

Service: We didn’t interact too much with our waiter, but when we did he was pleasant & friendly, and noticed when our wine was getting low. My only complaint was that my water wasn’t refilled until the glass was empty when we were receiving our check.  

Overall: Absolutely love the banquette seating, but our tables were so close to our neighbor that I felt like we were dining together, and this seemed to be the case throughout the room. I’ve decided that any restaurant I visit during restaurant week I need to make a point of going back to in order to experience the full menu. I enjoyed everything I ordered but the options were of course limited, so I’d like to return to try the fish which I heard is outstanding. The meals weren’t as inventive as Sorellina, but the atmosphere was just as sophisticated, warm, & comfortable. The regular prices are high so I won’t be (and frankly can’t be) rushing back.  

The Perfect Bite: I had a hard time determining what my favorite part of the meal was. I was satisfied with every course but there wasn’t one that stood out from the rest. Not many places can do a Caesar salad just the way I like it, so I’ll have to go with the appetizer: shaved parm, crunchy crouton, romaine lettuce coated with just enough dressing (that didn’t upset my lactose intolerant stomach). 

www.mistralbistro.com

Sorellina

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Pappardelle with rabbit ragu

Pappardelle with rabbit ragu

Walking into Sorellina at 1 Huntington Avenue, I already knew I was in for a treat. I had heard nothing but rave reviews of Chef/Owner Jamie Mammano’s sister restaurants: L’Andana (located outside the city in Burlington MA), Mistral (my next stop for restaurant week!), Mooo… (I visited last year& am searching for a special occasion to return), and Teatro (a theater district gem). After being led to our table I was confident that my evening would live up to the expectations. My party of 4 took our seats; the boys in their chairs & the girls on the booth side which extended from one side of the room to the other, connecting all the diners on a sofa-like seating arrangements. Every few tables even had pillows to lean on! I hadn’t even opened the menu and I was already thrilled. From the floor-to-ceiling windows, to the back-lit full wall mural, to the tree/branch theme, I was enthralled with the atmosphere and felt welcome & comfortable.

Bread: On a rectangular plate we were brought a 10” loaf with 4 pre-cut pieces. I enjoy when the bread is appropriately rationed out, so as not to waste any leftovers. The pieces were generous in size, had a crunchy top, and tasted great with a little butter. We asked for more, but I held back on seconds – I had my 3 courses to focus on.

Menu: This restaurant week menu had a couple more options than others, which made it (almost) difficult to make a decision. I was torn between the pasta meal & steak dish for my entrée, but after seeing the mushrooms that accompanied the meat I was able to choose the following for my 3 courses: Calamari, Pappardelle, Ciocollato.

Presentation: The grilled calarmi primi must have been a special addition, because in doing my research I couldn’t find it on any Sorellina web menu, so my description may lack some detail. What I can tell you is that I’ve never had grilled calamari like this before. Presented in a bowl with a narrow bottom & wide rim (making it difficult to scrounge up every last piece!), the squid was accompanied by what I believe to be a ‘tempestine’ pasta (imagine an orzo pasta but smaller and round.. something you’d find in a soup). The combination gave the dish substance & the hint of red pepper flakes provided the right amount of zip. The pappardelle came with braised rabbit ragu & shaved Pecorino Toscano (cheese made from sheep’s milk). The ragu came underneath the pasta, soaking in a delicious, slightly buttery sauce, which gave the pappardelle major flavor. The pairing of the pasta with the tender rabbit made this dish outstanding. The table also ordered a side of truffled fries with parmigiano, which came in a small cast iron pot. I was dining with a few ketchup freaks who asked for a side, and we were delivered a generous portion in a small square bowl which they requested I make a note about 🙂  The ciocollato is described on the menu as a chilled chocolate Budino, with crème fraiche & amarene cherries. Really, all I saw was “chocolate” and I went for it. I’m not positive what a “Budino” is, so I’ll describe it as a torte, which was thick & rich with a strong smokey after taste. My two friends ordered the same, and one could barely eat hers because of the “torchy” taste. I’m assuming this feature was on purpose, and I didn’t dislike it enough to stop eating. It was definitely a taste I never had before in a dessert (besides S’mores), and despite leaving some on my plate (it was just so rich), I did enjoy it.

Bathroom: While they are single stalls/rooms, there are at least a couple women’s & men’s doors to choose from in case one is occupied. The restroom itself was chic & modern with a small-tiled warm toned floor. The mirror was large and circular hanging from a rope/ribbon. The sink was rectangular, smooth and somewhat transparent, lit from below. No complaints except for the old-fashioned lock which almost held me captive.

Wait Staff: The front of the house was welcoming and led us to our table in the center of the triangular-shaped room. Our waiter Kirk was attentive & able to suggest for me a dry red wine when I was having trouble telling them apart (I love red wine, but usually stick to Merlot or Malbec). I have to say I was a little intimidated by him though; he was knowledgeable & delivered everything promptly, but he didn’t really smile and seemed to be strictly business. He did have a few accessories which I noticed & loved: the waiters’ blue pin-striped aprons were a smart touch in a room filled with blacks, browns, and whites; my girlfriend’s cocktail was delivered on a “disco ball” metallic tiled serving tray; the entrees were delivered while my boyfriend was using the restroom and his meal was kept warm with a metal covering; the crumb scraper is always an A+, making a smooth & clean tablecloth after the main course (ok I’ll admit it, I tend to be a messy eater).

Overall: I think I can safely say this is now one of my favorite restaurants in Boston. The food of course has a lot to do with it, but I just loved the atmosphere & décor. I really appreciated the little touches of decoration that tied the whole theme together: the plates/chargers that were on the table (until we ordered) held a beautifully simple tree print; the unique box within a box chandeliers were scattered above the diners; the massive back-lit wine rack took up a large section of the back wall. It was warm & stylish, energetic yet relaxed (2 thumbs up for the couch-like booths with pillows). I felt as though I was at a hip new spot in NYC! They also have a complimentary car service for anyone who lives within metro Boston. The regular prices are definitely out of my league, so perhaps I’ll return when my boyfriend is treating me for a birthday dinner 😉

The Perfect Bite: The calamari was like no other, but that was one of the better ragu pasta dishes I’ve tasted. Pappardelle is one of my favorites, and the sauce & pieces of rabbit meat worked perfectly together.

www.sorellinaboston.com

Radius

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cauliflower soup

cauliflower soup

Ah yes, it’s that time of year again… restaurant week begins! For my first of three reservations I decided on Radius with my boyfriend & parents.  Located on the corner of High Street & Summer Street in the financial district, Radius’ chef Michael Schlow presents you with modern French cuisine in a chic & elegant setting. The main dining room is shaped in a ½ circle with tables lining the perimeter, and more seating in an intimate inner circle, complete with tables & booths. Red lighting lines the top of the wall encompassing you in a warm tone. Unfortunately, we were not really able to experience this atmosphere as we were seated in a small side room with three other tables. While this room was an open continuation of the central area, I felt a little secluded as the main décor did not extend into this room, leaving it a bit dull. I was hoping the meal would make up for the lack in atmosphere.

Bread: Before the bread was served we were brought a small tasting from the chef; in a miso soup spoon was a braised brussel sprout, tomato confit, bacon, & crispy bread. I’m not a huge brussel sprout fan, but the tomato added a nice touch. Shortly after, everyone was served their own individual roll accompanied by two plates of warm butter triangles for the table. The bread was warm & crispy, and I was surprised & delighted to learn it was sourdough!

Menu: In a rectangular leather booklet, we were presented with 2 options for the first course, 3 for the main course, and 2 for dessert. The rest of the menu was still available, but each item had an additional cost on top of the $33.10 you were paying for restaurant week. Having studied the menu the night before in anticipation, I already knew what I was ordering: cauliflower soup, lightly seared salmon, carrot cake “a la Radius”.

Presentation: I was brought a shallow bowl that contained the crispy duck, brioche croutons, & romanesco, and the cauliflower soup was poured in front of me out of a cast iron kettle. Deliciously creamy without being too rich or heavy, this was a great start to the evening. The brioche croutons & few pieces of duck added a nice touch. My salmon was presented on top of local braising greens & a pile of warm lentils. While it was cooked perfectly, the cumin vinaigrette wasn’t as strong as I was hoping, so the dish lacked that special something that would have separated it from all the other salmon dishes I’ve had in the past. Absolutely tasty, but I was expecting something more, something different. The carrot cake interested as it came disassembled, each ingredient on a different area of the plate: cake topped with long & thin carrot shavings, cream cheese frosting, warm ice cream piled on some walnuts. The cake itself was great and tasted even better with the sweeter than usual ice cream. A creative & fun way to present a dessert!

Wait Staff: Our waitress was nice & knowledgeable, and always had a smile on her face. The manager came over during our main course to make sure everything was to our liking, which it was. After the entrée, the waitress brought a crumb scraper over to clear off our tablecloth which I always enjoy (I’d love to get one of those little gadgets for my house!). There was a bit of a wait between the bread and our first course, and our dinner ended up being 2 ½ hours, which I think goes down in history as the longest meal I’ve ever had at a restaurant. I’m not necessarily complaining since I like making an event out of dining out, I just wasn’t expecting to be rolling myself out of there at 9pm.

Bathroom: To get to the restrooms you have to ascend down this beautiful wide marble(?) staircase and pass through a lounge/wine bar. Complete with a wine vault (this building use to house a bank), bar, and comfortable seating, I felt like I was in a hotel lobby. The bathroom itself was one of the larger ones I’ve seen; when you first walk in there is a small seating area with two low stools with thick cushions that are in front of a large mirror. This leads into the section with the stalls; there were at least six, and each had a small shelf for your purse. The sink countertop was like a deck floor, with narrow sections of dark wood. The sink itself was a large white bowl, raised up and placed on top of the counter. I enjoyed the spacious & modern feel.

Overall: I personally feel like atmosphere is a large part of dining out, so I felt as though I missed out on the full Radius experience by being placed in that side room. None of us were disappointed with our meals, but I think we were expecting a bit more; perhaps more originality with the salmon, maybe a larger portion of the panna cotta dessert that my father had trouble finding on his plate. It is generally an expensive spot, so I won’t be rushing back, but if I do return I’ll make sure to eat in the main dining room and perhaps I’ll have a different take. I did appreciate the bite sized after dinner treats that were brought with the check: lime meringues, raspberry gelatins, and orange biscottis.

The Perfect Bite: The cauliflower soup was absolutely the highlight of the evening. I love how it was presented and it was even more delicious than I was expecting. The pieces of duck added great texture to the smooth & creamy dish.

www.radiusrestaurant.com

Aquitaine

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steak frites

steak frites

This French Bistro is located on Tremont Street in the heart of the South End. Executive chef/owner Seth Woods has created a sophisticated & modern dining experience with an ambitious cocktail & wine menu. I have been to Aquitaine for drinks in the past and recall sitting at their cozy bar, looking out onto Tremont. I’ve heard nothing but positive comments about their menu and was looking forward to some fine French cuisine.

 
Bread: I like when restaurants deliver one roll per person in the party, which often ensures that no bread will go to waste. Although knowing me or the people I dine with, if they were to bring extras it most certainly wouldn’t be left behind. Served on a bread plate, each roll was like an individual mini loaf; freshly made & served with warm butter, the crunchy roll gave way to a soft & light interior. I also must add, before the bread was presented, we were given four “gougeres”. I’m a dummy when it comes to French cuisine and can’t even pronounce “gougeres”, but each was a round bread puff no larger than a golf ball. Flakey & light with a bite of cayenne pepper flavor!
 
Menu: The Appetizers, Entrees, and Sides were accompanied by a Plat Du Jour category which led me to believe that each plate of the day was made from ingredients gathered that morning. There were a variety of entree choices that ranged from pasta to lamb to seafood to chicken to steak, which worked well for my party since I tend to choose a pasta or steak and my boyfriend & mother prefer fish. The dessert list was extensive, written on a raised chalk board just in front of our table.
 
Presentation: My mother & I split the Belgian Endive Salad with tart apple, Roquefort, walnuts & parsley to start. I’m not a fan of sharing food and I like to take my time when eating, so I was happy to see that they split the salad on two plates for us. The slightly bitter endive with the blue cheese Roquefort and tart & sweet apple was a great combination. I continued with the Steak Frites with périgord black truffle vinaigrette, watercress shallot salade, and natural jus. Served in three even sections in a row: frites, strips of medium rare steak, greens. The fries were good but I couldn’t get enough of the shallot salad paired with the tender meat.
We all decided to split the Profiteroles with vanilla bean ice cream & hot chocolate sauce. The plate came with three profiteroles sprinkled with powdered sugar, the puff pastries sandwiching the vanilla ice cream. The pastry itself was soft enough to cut into with a spoon and the warm chocolate sauce came in a gravy-type pouring dish for individual serving.
 
Bathroom: By far the most creative bathroom I’ve seen in a while. The scattered large tile mosaic floor set a modern scene, as did 75% of the walls which were covered (floor to ceiling) with wine bottle labels. I also appreciated the full length mirror, because sometimes a girl just needs to make sure everything’s in place.
 
Wait Staff: When asked what kind of chardonnay they carry, Emma was able to list them off the top of her head which I always find impressive. She was sweet, attentive, and a joy to have waiting on us. She knows the area well and educated us on the surrounding hot spots, including the Franklin Cafe which is a “go to” for the staff post-work since it’s open until 2am, seven days a week (http://www.franklincafe.com/).
 
Overall: With their moderate prices, knowledgable wait staff, and sophisticated decor, I would absolutely recommend Aquitaine for any type of dining experience. I’d like to return for a Sunday brunch, or with my girlfriends and look further into their creative cocktail menu.
 
The Perfect Bite: The Profiteroles were a perfect end to the evening, but I often say that vanilla ice cream is a waste of my time. The steak was cooked perfectly (not too tough, not too chewy), and when paired with the vinaigrette covered greens I wasn’t surprised that I cleaned my plate.

Mare

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Maine Peekytoe Crab Cake

Maine Peekytoe Crab Cake

Owner Frank DePasquale opened Boston’s first all-natural & organic ingredient filled menu on Richmond Street in the North End. This restaurant is designed to make you feel like you’re dining in a fish bowl, as 75% of the surrounding walls are glass windows which look out onto the busy streets of this Italian influenced part of Boston. Muted by a soft white drape, the back wall radiates a rotation of neon colors that reminds me of coral one would see in the tropics. The atmosphere is sophisticated yet relaxed, perfect for a date night or dinner out with a group of friends.

Bread: Served in a basket alongside a dish of olive oil, the two breads to choose from where slices of Italian and what seemed like a  rustic, hearty, multi-grain bread. The latter was worth going back for seconds.

Menu: This two page menu is presented on a clipboard, complete with Antipasti, Primi, Secondi, Contorni, and a Chef’s Tasting with a choice of a five or seven course meal. I was with a party of six, so we decided to share a few appetizers: the Bufala Mozzarella Caprese, my addition of the Soft Polenta,  and the Maine Peekytoe Crab Cake. For the main course I settled on the Hand Rolled Ricotta Gnudi with a beef bolognese. My first choice (which I regret not choosing) was the chesnut & black pepper Pappardelle with wild boar, charred leeks, ricotta salata. My friend reminded me that I can’t pass up trying their bolognese, and the reason I was originally hesitant was the pasta choice: Gnudi (NEW-d) pasta is similar to a gnocchi but is lighter as it’s not made with potato. The dish was great, I enjoyed the hearty sauce, but I prefer to have my bolognese with a Tagliatelle or Penne pasta.

Presentation: Served in a deep bowl with heirloom tomatoes over basil oil & balsamic, the Caprese’s buffalo mozzarella was a unique take on the traditional Italian antipasti. The soft polenta was served (I believe) in the steel skillet it was cooked in, topped with mushrooms which I happily ignored. The polenta itself however was more creamy than gritty, which some may prefer but I like my polenta to have more of a textured taste. Three small crab cakes were placed on a long dish with a trio of aiolis.

Bathrooms: In the back towards the kitchen, I appreciated that the one stall was a separate room from the sink, which eliminated any awkward walk-ins. Yes, there are always locks on the doors, but for some reason I never trust them. The restroom was clean and modern, and I especially liked the texture of the “steel drum” like base of the sink.

Wait Staff: My boyfriend & I arrived a few minutes before the rest of the party and we were promptly seated. Our appetizers, meals, and after dinner drinks all came out at perfect times; we were not hurried to finish any dish, and were also never looking around wondering when the next course was coming out.

Overall: You can’t beat the feeling of dining at Mare; with the cool lighting and flat screens in each corner displaying photographs of Italy, you forget you’re in the hectic North End. I have no complaints about the food; my boyfriend thoroughly enjoyed his Homemade Potato Gnocci with roasted duck, and my friend made a great point that her Stripped Bass was cooked perfectly, which is not an easy task. The only unsettling part of the night was seeing the prices on the menu. I choose my Gnudi bolognese because it was a cheaper Primi, and you could certainly tell by the amount of pasta I was given. It was a perfect size only because I had a sampling of all three appetizers. I suppose you’re paying for an outstanding quality of fish and the all organic ingredients that go into making each dish, but with my current status I’d only return for a special occasion.

The Perfect Bite: I had never tried the gnudi pasta and while I did favor it’s lighter consistency over the gnocchi, the creamy aiolis with the Maine Crab Cakes was superb … I also must add an honorable mention of the palate cleanser we were given: a slice of cucumber, topped with a blood orange, and a ricotta cheese lobster mousse. Unexpected, dainty, & delicious!

www.marenatural.com